Going Back to Kali

Good Morning

On the way home to Canada, PASHA MALLA struggles to focus on India’s future even as one of its own children wails in his ear. The conclusion of his travel diary. (Going Back to Kali | November 20, 2007)

Lessons in Humility

In a flying trip to Bombay, PASHA MALLA encounters the ghost of Gandhi and considers how the late leader’s values intersect with those of today’s hard-charging India. The next installment of his travel journal. (Going Back to Kali | November 6, 2007)

Making It

A visit to the technology hub that is Bangalore reveals a modern city with vibrant nightlife and a surprisingly literary police force, during the latest stop in PASHA MALLA’s travelogue. (Going Back to Kali | October 16, 2007)

Breaking Bread

A long-awaited history lesson from a cousin turns into an education on religion and politics in post-partition Kashmir for PASHA MALLA, in the seventh installment of his travel journal. (Going Back to Kali | October 2, 2007)

Henna, and Coca-Cola

The wedding arrives, and PASHA MALLA finds his role is more than just that of guest. But playing the pious Hindu “brother” doesn’t come easy. The sixth in a series of travel essays. (Going Back to Kali | September 11, 2007)

Paradise Lost?

As relatives gather for a wedding, PASHA MALLA faces tough questions about why his family moved away from Jammu and Kashmir and tries to figure out what, exactly, they left behind. Part five of his travel journal. (Going Back to Kali | August 21, 2007)

When We Go North

Along bumpy roads and past intimidating border posts, PASHA MALLA heads north for his cousin’s wedding and discovers safety might be just a state of mind, in the fourth installment in his travel journal. (Going Back to Kali | August 7, 2007)

New Money

On a trip back to India, PASHA MALLA sees the shining new face of the country’s idealistic business elite—and also the not-so-shining parts. The third installment in a series of travel essays. (Going Back to Kali | July 24, 2007)

A Couple of My Dad’s Lives

On a trip back to India, PASHA MALLA sets his itinerary in search of his past. He gets up close and personal in a nation of arranged marriages, in the second installment in his travel journal. (Going Back to Kali | July 10, 2007)

Namaskar, Goodnight

On a trip back to India, PASHA MALLA sets his itinerary in search of his past. But in an ever-changing country, history can be difficult to find. The first in a series of travel essays. (Going Back to Kali | June 19, 2007)

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