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Novelists in Restaurants Eating Food

Tsujita LA Artisan Noodle

Sometimes a bowl of noodles is big enough to absorb conversation, literature, and the love lives of those nearby.

Our series continues where we ask novelists to dine out, then write us something that 1) is a restaurant review; 2) is not a restaurant review.

Tsujita’s ramen is meant to be eaten in stages. You begin with the tsukemen, a dipping ramen which arrives in two bowls: one of chukamen noodles, the other of rich tonkotsu pork broth. The dish should first be experienced unadorned: savoring flavor and texture, grasping a few fresh, springy noodles with your chopsticks and dipping them into the soup. When your mind begins to wander, it’s time to move to the next iteration of the dish. A squeeze of lime (Japan’s vinegary sudachi is hard to find in the states) gives the noodles a sharp citrus tang that cuts the fatty broth. The dish blooms as you manipulate slight elements to change its character. Once you tire of that, you may sprinkle the chef’s spice blend onto the noodles, sharpening the dish. And then, once you’re nearly done, the staff returns to refill your soup bowl with water, thinning it... Continue Reading

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May 01
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