Farewell, Jean Georges. I've found a new beloved: Mas, the petite Provençal boîte with all the sophistication and raison d'être of pricier French restaurants plus charm to spare. Why l'amour? First, you can mix and match from the seasonal tasting and à la carte menus without so much as a sniff from the ever-attentive waiters. My picks? Portuguese sardines on a Parmesan sablé, roasted Meiller Farm lamb, and hazelnut pralinée. Then there's the hours: Dinner from 6 to 11 p.m. and small plates from 11:30 p.m to 4 a.m.